TRANS CANADA 2023

PASSPORT  What may be the worst thing that could happen on an international trip, besides illness or injury?  During my Toronto Pearson Airport's connecting flight to Halifax, I forgot my US passport at the Canadian Customs and Border Control scanner!  Having exited that room, there was no going back.  No amount of pleading to Information, Air Canada, and Airport Police helped.  I could only complete a Lost Report on Pearson's Lost and Found website.  

Being already in Canada, my California Real ID was good for their domestic flights and trains.  I continued to Halifax.  According to US Consulate websites, Emergency Passport was by appointment only.  Montreal, Toronto, Vancouver were fully booked for over a month.  Scouring the internet, my 2 dozen calls got only useless recordings and endless music on hold.  Canadian public employees on strike was the excuse.  Dead ends everywhere.  What else to do?  I prayed for a Miracle.  Just then, at 2am, the "Emergency Abroad" phone number caught my attention.  

Miracle began:  At that wee hour of the morning, someone answered!  The sympathetic agent advised me to send an email to American Citizen Services.  I emailed the one in Toronto.  An auto rejection email came quickly. Amazingly the fine prints explained that other proof of citizenship could be used for border crossing by land, and explained how to word the Subject Line for urgent cases.   I re-worded my email and made a backup Amtrak reservation.  Instant relief, Hallelujah!  Next morning I awoke rested and happy.

Amtrak out of Canada was good enough, but my Miracle continued.  Toronto's US Consulate emailed me an appointment on the exact date I requested.  On the day, the process only took minutes.  An officer accepted my documents, told me to return at 2pm.  I got my Emergency Passport.  Thanks to the US Consulate.  Praise God.

HALIFAX  Express Bus 320 from the airport to downtown stopped right across The Barrington Hotel.  Walking around to a ferry crossing, I rode to Dartmouth, and then rode right back, as there wasn’t much to see.  Downtown was pleasant, but beyond 6pm, even on a Friday night, shops on the streets and in the Scotia Square mall were mostly closed.  At 45° F the Waterfront was deserted.  Fortunately the Bluenose II restaurant, a down slope block from the hotel, was warm and homey for dinner. 

The Maritime Museum was an eye opener.  There were two major events on this eastern coast:  In 1917, French SS Mont-Blanc carrying WWI high explosive was T-boned by Norwegian SS Imo carrying relief cargo.  Mont-Blanc then veered into the Halifax Harbor, wiping out 1.6 mile radius of people and structures in an instant.  Five years earlier in 1912, Halifax dropped 119 Titanic victims back into the sea when embalming supplies ran out. They buried 150.

The Titanic tragedy displayed raw human flaws:  1) VANITY:  White Star Line decided on only 20 lifeboats, which could only accommodate 1178 of 2,240 (if full 3,320) passengers.  The idiot captain skipped the emergency drill.  Therefore chaos, including losing two boats, 472 seats were unused.  Trusting that the Titanic was “unsinkable,” 1st and 2nd class gentlemen played up the decorum of ladies and children first.  This blindness was hailed as gallantry, especially by White Star Line, to deflect their faults and to deter lawsuits.  2) CLASSISM:  While the first boat only had 5 1st class passengers (3 men, 2 women) and 7 crew members, the 3rd class steerage was always locked to prevent passengers from “spreading diseases” to upper levels, but in this tragedy, from escaping sooner.  Not giving up the chance to survive was not cowardice.  57 1st class men were saved, while 146 3rd class women and children died. The difference was that 1st class had a choice to leave sooner.  3) RACISM:  Were there Asians on the Titanic?  6 of 8 Chinamen on board in 3rd class and the only Japanese man on board in 2nd class survived. In the era of Chinese Exclusion, aside from immediate suspicion and ridicule of these 7 paid passengers, their survival feat was not deemed worthy of Titanic history, not until Director Arthur Jones’ 2020 documentary, "The Six" (watch here). The Japanese man, upon returning to Japan, got fired from his government job and ostracized by his people for not dying.  They blamed him for not abiding by the white gentleman’s way of women and children first.  Men first was the norm in 1912 Meiji Japan.  4) JUDGMENT DAY:  Was a mother or a daughter more worthy than a father or a son?  Was a child with a longer future more worthy than an elder with life experience?  Staring at imminent death or life, who played God to decide anyone's fate?  1st class first? WTF!

TRAINS  Riding on slow old trains clinking and clanking, jerking and tossing for miles and miles was oddly therapeutic to me.  Why not go faster by plane, faster by car, cheaper by bus?  Train passengers are a strange lot.  I revered old rail tracks too, for they were laid with blood and guts.  I had to go before they were gone.

Canada's VIA "The Ocean" was 22 hours from Halifax to Montreal.  Coach was spacious and comfortable, until a big burly guy sat next to me for several hours with his elbow halfway into my space.  My other complaint was the ceiling lights were lit all night; I lowered my hoodie and wore sunglasses. "The Corridor" was only 5 hours from Montreal to Toronto.  Montreal VIA station had good food stalls. I especially liked the beautiful French pastries.  The highlight of the VIA was “The Canadian,” 4 nights from Toronto to Vancouver.  “Sleeper Plus” lower berth included a big window turned out to be the best choice.   On the first night, the attendant made up the bunks after dinner. She was supposed to transform the bunks back into 2 facing couches each morning, but everyone preferred the bunks left as beds through all 4 nights.  Once the drapery was drawn, my cubbyhole with changing window view was a private oasis.  Car 113 had 3 sets of upper/lower bunks for a total of 6 passengers.  The car had a drinking water dispenser, and separate boy's and girl's toilet rooms.  A farther shower room was shared with other cars.  Electric outlets for charging were inside the toilet rooms.  Both upper/lower bunk passengers could stow luggage and shoes, with a 9 inch height limit, on the floor under the lower bunk.  Sleepers included meals.  My choice was eggs, hash brown, bacon, toast, coffee and juice every morning.  Filet mignon, pork tenderloin, prime rib, and rack of lamb were my 4 dinner entrees.  Ontario was still a snow and ice winter wonderland in April.  Manitoba was flat and golden like the old west.  Saskatchewan was flat too, but greener.  Alberta and British Columbia were the showstoppers with majestic and tranquil rocky mountains, waterfalls, lakes, vegetation, animals, and birds.  At the bunks and during meals, fellow passengers naturally developed rapport.  Pia, a girl from Germany, got off at Saskatoon to volunteer at a farm.  Simon, a boy from Switzerland, my upper bunk mate, will drive around Canada for 3 more weeks after Vancouver. I met Libretta, who studied Theology and Siyeon, who was deciding career and boyfriend, both from Korea but were students in Toronto, and Kuniko, a girl from Japan.  Emil, a small child, who knew a lot about trains, was traveling with his Hong Kong Chinese mother and Montreal French father.  As meal tables were unassigned, I sat with different people and exchanged usual introductions each time. 

MONTREAL TORONTO VANCOUVER  Landscape and climate may vary at different latitudes, but most metropolises in the developed world are similar now.  Familiar franchises, recognizable transportation modes, universal social practices, each Canadian town felt like home to me in just 2 or 3 days.  I visited museums and must’ve seen every Monet and Picasso distributed all over the world.  A culture shock was the combination of 2 taxes on every bill that amounted to 11%.  Tag on a minimum of 15% tip, be prepared to pay a lot for a restaurant meal.  I loved ethnic neighborhoods, but neither Montreal nor Vancouver's Little Italy could I find spaghetti and meatballs for lunch.  Besides pizza, real Italian restaurants were closed until 5pm.  I ventured further out to Vancouver’s Little India, which turned out to be a good hub of Indian shops, restaurants, and a market.  I had authentic Punjabi chicken masala.  It was delicious, but so spicy that I had to toss the leftover.  

A special thanks to Sammy (2018 trans-Siberian) for a whole rainy day of driving and hosting me from Toronto Chinatown to Markham’s Pacific Mall, to Vaughan Mills, to lunch at The Red Sichuan, and to meet his daughter Wendy’s lovely family.  Sammy is a kindred spirit in world exploration.

INCIDENT  I was on the SkyTrain heading back to downtown from Little India. It was an hour-long ride when I spotted a chubby white dude, about 30, with his pants down, baring and exposing his privates from waist down to his ankles.  For many stops, no one reacted.  Finally, I Skype called the transit police. Officers came on 2 stops later. The dude quickly pulled up his pants, but too late; officers saw him.  An officer copied my photo evidence.  The train was safe again.  Glad to help, Vancouver!

NORDIC CRUISE & LONDON 2022

Life as we knew it abruptly detoured after COVID.  Aside from obvious tragedies of death and restrictions, "COVID" was the almighty answer to inconveniences and complaints:  Inflation? Bad service?  Homeless? No job? Worker shortage? Out of business?  Relationship crisis? Bad hair? "COVID!" Now 2½ years since the pandemic declared in March 2020, with cautious people vaccinated, and invincible ones alive by God's Grace, mind-over-matter, at some point the show must go on!  

So I joined friends on a 16-day cruise. For half the pre-COVID price, luxury was barebone, but attentive service was kept, and crispy white tablecloth at dining made any meal special.  I enjoyed seeing the choppy Nordic seas, the break of dawns and sunrises, and the phantom Northern Lights. 

Denmark, Norway, Iceland seaports

Grundarfjordur Iceland, on way to Gufu Fall. Thanks to Anita Lee for capturing the moment.

I had imagined these were desolate places, that I would visit meteor lands inhabited by superhumans, who could tolerate isolation, extreme weather, months of darkness, and limited resources. A drabby existence, I had thought.

Instead they were quaint little towns with modest utilitarian houses and buildings.  The town center, usually walkable from the cruise port, would have the quintessentials: a church, a pharmacy, a liquor store, a not so super market, a museum, and a few "must see" relics. Beyond these specks of civilization would be Earth's expansive wonders of waterfalls, craters, volcanic presences, and in September, green vegetation everywhere for herds of plump white lambs to graze on.  Roads were few but strategically located with few or no traffic lights and speed signs. Drivers simply behave mindfully.  I was pleasantly shocked that cars always slowed or stopped even unnecessarily to accommodate my crossings. There's a consistent middle-class feel in these towns devoid of richer or poorer neighborhoods.  Locals seem to pursue well being over superfluous.  Rarely did I see "sale" signs to entice impulse shopping; prices were not cheap, but things looked good quality.  Even in Reykjavik, the metropolis in Iceland, there were no neon districts with flashing marquees.  Their iconic landmark, shaped like a rocketship ready to take off into heaven, was the Church of Hallgrímur.  

As I stepped back into the cruise ship, a thought dawned on me:  Nordic towns are the last sanctuary for White culture.  God Bless these lands and their people.

London

The two colossal winged human-headed lions that had guarded Nimrud's royal palace, and the gigantic standing lion that guarded the Temple of Ishtar were in the British Museum!  What else did the British have? The Westminster Abbey max'd out on burial and memorial spaces, but amazingly they managed to bury Stephen Hawking there. Maybe due to the crowding, Queen Elizabeth II and her husband rested at Windsor Castle instead. Their own stuff was a lot, imagine their hauls of the best and the most from every part of the world.  I was wrong to think that the Victoria and Albert Museum was a smaller venue, but just the jewelry collection alone, from 1500 BC to the present, took two floors covering all the walls and middle area display cases.  Whereas the Roman and most other empires now require us to imagine their grandness from piles of remaining rubbles, London showcases the British empire's undeniable magnificence. In fairness, I must admit that through their conquers and colonization, the British had done some good along the way.  Thanks to them for housing and preserving the incredible amount of artifacts that may otherwise be gone in their original countries.

Queen Elizabeth II passed away just days before my visit to London.  I saw her funeral procession on TV.  How the Brits love their royalties is understandable, I think because of this woman.  I'm not sure if there had ever been a classier person.  She was the epitome of British etiquette and the trusted face of the country. She did it for 70 of her 97 years, perfectly.  That's the duty she took on.  No b*tching and headlines. 

CALIFORNIA COAST 2022

COVID is still looming over the world, now into the third year with no end in sight.  The WWW states that historically, pandemics last 3 years, and then fade into more manageable strains.  Let’s hope and pray. 

Santa Cruz, Monterey Bay, Pacific Grove, Salinas, and Carmel  

Thanks to my friends Anita and Irene for driving their car.  Away from our TVs and couches, an outing to these northern California towns was sensational!  We had fabulous food (Crow’s Nest, Mosaic, Zoccoli’s, Salinas City BBQ, Rosine’s, Coniglio Brothers Italian Deli, The Butter House, Ambrosia, Goodies Delicatessen, Sweet Reba, Crossroad BBQ, Paris Bakery, Old Fisherman’s Grotto), and saw plenty of dramatic coastal sceneries. We were happy to have met individual folks who had just stopped to chat with us like old friends.  A street vendor with whom we talked about world traveling gave me a string of mini Tibetan prayer flags. 

Point Lobos Chinese building 1850's

Along the way, I was also in search of Chinese in America’s history, only a few remnants left. In 2019, a Dragon Archway honored the 4 Santa Cruz Chinatowns that were wiped out by flood or by mysterious fire. John Steinbeck’s novel "Cannery Row" depicted the “Lee Chong Market,” which was an alias for the Wing Chong Market. The market is now Kristonio, a gift shop. Like other Chinese villages, the Chinese in Cannery Row were gone after a night in flames. Only a small wooden Wing Chong sign was left to identify their prior existence. There were photos and objects from Chinese, Japanese, Portuguese occupants on display at Whalers Cabin at Point Lobos Reserve.  Docent Dan said the cabin was built by Chinese fishermen.  And the Pacific Grove Museum showed a good attempt to revive the history of the Chinese with a permanent display of photos and articles.  

During the time of 光復香港 時代革命 (Hong Kong 2016-2020), I happened to speak with a young man freshly from Hong Kong. I asked him, what if China was taken up by other countries, such that China was gone from the world's map?  The young man did not hesitate for even 2 seconds. He replied that it would be fine with him.  

It almost happened in the early 1900s. 八國聯軍(Great Britain, United States of America, France, Germany, Russia, Japan, Austria-Hungary, Italy) by justification of protecting their ambassadors from 義和團 (The Boxers) ,  plundered and pillaged in a grab-a-thon frenzy.  Some of the loots are still in The British Museum. To amass territory, countries even battled each other on China’s grounds.  The loser, China, signed away land, leases, and debts. 

Chinamen were only tolerated as a source of cheap and reliable labor.  In spite of the Anti Coolie Act, but because few white men were stupid enough to get themselves killed dynamiting tunnels and shoveling 20 pounds of rock over 400 times a day to build the transcontinental railroad, in 1864 the Central Pacific Railroad Company went to Canton. The brave, the hopeful, the desperate, signed up, but to find out too late that they could not bring family members, that white women were off limits, that they get half of white men's pay, that it was a one-way ticket, that they were deemed less than an animal in America.  

Until the awakening of minorities in the spirit of the Civil Rights Movement, and Rainbow Coalition in the 1960s, Chinese immigrants' sacrifices, contributions, even existence, were mostly annihilated in American history. 

It was Easter Sunday 4/17/22.  Our first stop in the morning was the Evergreen Cemetery.  Kate, a volunteer who came to clean tombstones, was so kind as to show us the Chinese memorial area and told us a bit of history.  There were more than 150 Chinamen buried there.  Many died from poisonous gas or explosions from building 6 railway tunnels.  This small cemetery built in 1850 was the only option in Santa Cruz for anyone non-Catholic.  A plot cost $7.  By now most of the Chinamen’s remains were transported back to their homeland. RIP.  In 2014, Mr. George Ow, Jr. funded a memorial to honor those early Chinese immigrants–fishermen, railroad workers, servants, and farm laborers.  The least we could do was go pay our respect.

Amid segregation, hostilities, and all kinds of outrageous impositions, the Chinamen survived by offering services that were too cheap to refuse.  The Chinese laundry was a lifeline that became an American icon; in fact, there were no Chinese laundry in China.  If they were bullied out of gold mining or fishing, they turned homegrown bean sprouts into “gold” by inventing American chop suey.  On this visit, my friends and I sought to pay homage to those folks whose struggle and suffering gallantly paved the way for future Chinese Americans. 

All Lives Matter 🇺🇲

Peace and Joy 🌎

WASHINGTON DC 2021

According to online information, when Hotel Harrington opened in 1914 in the heart of Washington DC, it was an impressive hotel, decked out in marble and mahogany, and boasting running water and private baths in most rooms!  In the 1930's it was the first DC hotel with air-conditioning! 107 years and 10 million+ guests later, I checked in for 9 nights despite some thumb down Yelp reviews. In my opinion, management kept up with proper hospitality, and was even charitable to charge so affordably for stays in the District's most prime location. I gave it 5-stars on Tripadvisor.  

Abraham Lincoln on 10th Street NW:  One block from Hotel Harrington was Ford's Theater.  Across the street from Ford's was a house with a sign that read "House Where Abraham Lincoln Died."  As the White House was just 5 blocks away, I visualized that on that fateful day, the President had the unfortunate whim to go to this nearby theater for some much needed R&R.  The play was a comedy.  While he was easing his mind on the worries of the country, evil was aiming at him.  Where were the bodyguards?  He fell, and then they all showed up.  They carried him to that house across the street.  

I was approaching "Lincoln's Waffle Shop" when a passerby asked me for money.  I replied him a flat "no."  He said, "Asians never give money."  Race always has to come up about anything in America.  The waffle shop looked like a vintage American cafe, but the staff members around were all Asians.  He went in, and so did I.  Yelp was right, their waffle was at least 4 stars. 

George Washington as Zeus?  In Greek mythology, Zeus is the ruler, protector, and father of all gods and humans.  On this visit to Mt. Vernon and to the American History Museum, I learned that George Washington was certainly a genius leader and war strategist.  Possibly, America's Independence wouldn't even happen without such a man at the right time and right place.  He started out fighting for the British at age 20; two years later he had already risen up as Lieutenant Colonel for colonial Virginia. Although he, at age 26, succeeded at driving out the French at Fort Duquesne, a feat that no British General could, his request to become a British military officer was refused--bad mistake by the British!  A month later he quit and  went home to civilian life as a farmer and plantation owner.  April 1775, shots were fired kicking off the American Revolution.  Two months later, at 43, Washington was appointed Commander in Chief of the new Army.  Immediately he devised to stand out to his men as top dog by dressing the part, distinguishing his uniform from lesser officers, even outdoing foreign commanders. To fire up his men, he had the Declaration of Independence read before battle.  How to fight 50,000 British with only 5,000 his own?  Washington was familiar with his opponent, having personally served in the British army.  With hometown advantage, he deployed spies, espionage, and sabotage.  Three years later the French joined in; two years later, the British withdrew officially.  Then Washington resigned immediately after the job was done.  He had brain, brawn, and bravery.  As President, he served 2 terms and refused further, setting an example that an American President must not be a permanent king.  In my art critic's point of view, the statue of George Washington done as Zeus in 1840 was so over the top, that it is a conceptually brilliant piece today.  

African American History Museum: 

The building's shape is industrial geometric, invoking the stacking up of 3 upside-down pyramids.   It has a stately presence no less, but completely different from the neoclassical buildings throughout Washington DC.  Black metallic exterior facades with systematic cutout patterns that daylight screened through and into the museum's interior.  Awesome.  

I must had started the museum in reverse order.  The top floor was a floor of triumph.  On exhibit were Black People's accomplishments and contributions in every facet of America's past and present.  

But the storytelling actually began, seemingly aptly, at the museum's basement level, which documented the violent predicaments of human trafficking and slavery throughout the world.  Europeans basically kidnapped Africans for labor and for trading as commodity to all continents. Be the person's skin was red yellow brown black or white, even a child could recognize that people were people.  Such was humanity's innate savageness and greed, that even our country's brilliant founding fathers owned slaves.  Thomas Jefferson, Benjamin Franklin, and George Washington had at times lamented that keeping slaves was wrong.  (To his credit, Washington freed all his slaves upon his death.)  Nevertheless, at the time, they reconciled those lofty words on the Declaration of Independence, "that all men are created equal" to exclude women, because women were not "men," and to exclude Blacks, because slaves were considered only 3/5 of a person.  Pre and post American Independence from 1610-1865 had been 246 years, that was 10 generations of legalized abuse toward a people.  And then by abolishing slavery, the courageous president was murdered. Our country shall continue to strive toward these Godly inspired words,  "...that all men are created equal." Amen.

Revisiting Washington DC with 3 friends:  During this time of COVID outing restrictions, I thought DC was the best choice.  Museums housing our nation's best collections were fantastic treats.  Having friends was great fun on the road.  We enjoyed the following eateries:  Harry's Restaurant, Eastern Market, Lincoln's Waffle Shop, Zaytinya, The Wharf in DC, Mekki D, Joy Luck Restaurant, The Wharf in Alexandria, Union Market, El Rinconcito Cafe, Thip Khao, Umaya DC, Rasika, Fiola Mare in Georgetown, The Warehouse in Alexandria.  Thanks to Helen, Anita, and Irene!

God Bless America!

ROAD TRIP 2021

PRELUDE: The COVID experience

Not everyone has the luxury of "safer at home." At the worst of times, there were folks out braving the pandemic to provide aides and services, in order for the general public to sustain some semblance of normalcy in our daily lives. I salute them. I especially salute those in health, safety, and law enforcement, who continued to serve and protect in the midst of mob resentment and mistrust. Public pressure to "defund the police" led to a $150 million cut from LAPD's budget. As the news continues to report drive-by killings, racial hate crimes, and just senseless violence all the time, heed that no one but criminals shall benefit from less law enforcement. Insanely, Texas has started a bill to do away with gun licensing. Someday cops could be out-gunned at the OK corral.

Praise the Lord, COVID vaccines were developed in record speed of less than a year. The FDA forewent its normal red-tapes, averaging 8 years, and immediately allowed them for emergency use in December 2020. By December, US COVID deaths reached 300,000+, and yet, as seen on Youtube, many Trump groupees continued to risk endangering themselves and others rather than complying with masking up. The 2nd wave of COVID deaths started to climb in October 2020 and hit a crescendo in mid-January 2021. The hike was mostly attributed to gatherings during the winter holidays, but did all those bare faced attendees at Trump’s pre and post election rallies really escape the virus unscathed?

"O beautiful for spacious skies, For amber waves of grain, For purple mountain majesties, Above the fruited plain! America! America! God shed His Grace on thee!"

Thanks to Sean and Deniet for driving 5000+ miles. Thanks to Phan for choosing every spectacular sight. Thanks to Mai for saving us much money by planning wisely. Thanks to Bill and Fanny for our fabulous impromptu meals. Thanks also to everyone for taking and sharing beautiful photos! This was another trip of a lifetime.

SAFER AT HOME 2020

My targeted travel this year was the United Kingdom in April for 3 weeks. “Man Plans, and God Laughs.” At the start of the new year, Wuhan and then all of China in quarantine was the world's news. OMG, another chaos in Motherland! Hong Kong was already a helluva mess effing up local and mainland government for months to no end. On YouTube I saw China’s emptied streets, and health workers in hazmat gears. All of China was shutting to a screeching halt. My Ebay orders from China vendors were delayed. So distant across the globe I sympathized but could not feel personal pain--so much tragedy reported all the time on the www, and incessant bad news, fake news, had numbed me long ago. At first President Trump diplomatically pitied China’s plight, but the cold reality was that China’s doom was America’s gain during war. 

In February I bought plane tickets and made 6 hotel and 5 train reservations. I looked forward to the Tower of London, Henry the Eighth, Jane Austen, Oxford, The Beatles, museums, and teas. And then news came that the coronavirus had sprung up beyond China, and that people were dying on cruise ships. Travel bans and quarantines began. Like Sweden, at first the UK too counted on “herd immunity” in facing the pandemic. I was gung-ho on that concept, because my heart was still set on the trip. On Booking.com’s UK forum I posted my shallow concern; I asked whether there were still waiting lines at attractions. A reply posted that stupid tourists like me would use up their emergency resources. Touché. By mid March the US announced banning European entry to include the UK. Game over. The hustle for refunds on non-refundable bookings began. United Airlines, defying the fed's refund order, only offered a 2-year voucher. "Can't squeeze blood out of a turnip."

Italy was on the map with increasing death numbers. The news showed Milan’s magnificent Cathedral Square eerily empty. I felt myself there lost and confused. New York City was next. The news showed made-shift refrigerated mobile morgues lined up in front of hospitals. Death toll increased by moments. Numbers were cold, but each count was a human being. President Trump said this “flu” will go away as suddenly as it came. The Center for Disease Control's more “educated” guesses bet on trends and stats. Even a dead clock is right twice a day. God's Will is All.

The City of Los Angeles and the State of California immediately enacted a “safer at home” aka “shelter in place” order. Only “essential” businesses were allowed to operate. “Non-essential” businesses and schools/universities could either telecommute or shut down. On social media, I saw LAX's tarmac oddly filled with parked passenger planes. World segregation began. Within days the “butterfly effect” crept in; Dow Jones plunged 30%. The haves immediately flocked to Costco and Walmart to empty out non-perishable and frozen food, sundries, and home entertainment for an unpredictable future. The hard-ups in sedans and SUVs immediately lined up miles long for charity goods.

But America is great. Immediately free money was sent to all who had filed income of less than $90,000 to the IRS. A household with income up to $75,000 single or $150,000 couple gets $1200 per adult and $500 per child. It was a blessing to the unemployed and those with no rainy day savings. For the more fortunate, we would use this money to stimulate the economy by shopping online and buying takeout food. Meanwhile the US dollar was stronger than ever even with non-stop printing of paper into $100 bills. It appears that during world crises, the US dollar is considered the safest currency. Thank you world!

God Bless our essential workers for braving the pandemic. Deaths and sacrifices of medical, emergency, grocery, delivery, factory, convalescent, and other pandemic workers were especially sorrowful. They did not sign up for war, but they were on the front line. Some died on a job that paid minimum wage.

Our military paid tribute to them with sky shows all over the country. On that afternoon, a thundering whoosh above my roof came and went. I appreciated the shattering sound. That instant also felt like "Tora! Tora! Tora!" The news showed some hospital workers were outdoors for the viewing. This morale-booster was quaint, but I wonder if this was the best use of military resources.

First the CDC only urged washing hands for 2 minutes; it took them a while to necessitate mouth covering. Everyone was advised to wear a mask, and to keep 6 feet apart from each other, except with house members. Suddenly folks could not visit their loved ones in convalescent homes. Folks could not be by their loved one's death bed. Precautions were deemed necessary to get a grip on the crisis, by limiting human contact to slow the spread. However, there were many who rejected doing so, regardless of daily warnings and death stats. Obviously they could choose to risk their own lives. As such, don't trust others--wear not just a bandanna but an N95 mask.

California Governor Newsom and Los Angeles City Mayor Garcetti, in order to avoid potential mass homelessness, immediately placed emergency orders that unequivocally ban commercial and residential evictions for non-payment of rent by any mention of "COVID-19." Lawyer Dennis Block (1-800-773-8428) on a webinar said that a Beverly Hills residential tenant had since stopped paying his $27,500 a month rent. Politicians gallantly played Robin Hood on the backs of landlords. I had thought punishing landlords in times of economic crises could only happen in communist countries.

So finally, with plenty of time and not many activity options, it was still only half bad. Instead of feeling like being imprisoned, I convinced myself that stationing at home was like floating on a cruise ship, with nothing to do but lounge and eat. I resorted to watching hours of YouTube on my 65 inch smart TV guilt-free. Saw a lot of President Trump telling us we were doing better than ever. Saw a lot of hospital scenes and reports of COVID hot spots and numbers. Saw motivational deeds by average neighborhood Jane’s and Joe’s. Saw the horrific 8:46 minutes of a policeman killing George Floyd. And then saw the Black Lives Matter riots.

I support the protests, but I do not support the riots. How did robbing and burning an Armenian American’s jewelry store, or pillaging a Vietnamese American’s nail salon sooth the pain of inequality? It was pitiful watching the herds of thugs greedily carrying out their loot.

By the end of June on Memorial Day, bars and beaches were packed by Americans sick and tired of the CDC’s rhetoric. While Europe was flat-lining their pandemic deaths, US deaths continued to climb ferociously. “I don’t wear a mask for the same reason I don’t wear underwear,” a woman proudly spoke up at a public hearing in Palm Beach. 

SPAIN & PORTUGAL 2019

Revisiting after 30 years

I felt no deja-vu. 

Spain and Portugal progressed 
and remodeled with the times, 
and I evolved too.

GOYA (1746-1828)
On this visit to the Prado, I couldn’t find “Saturn Devouring His Son.” This Goya was transported from a wall in his residence. I’m guessing that in his last days, family cannibalism summed up his view on humanity. I didn’t know real pain 30+ years ago, but on this round it could had been healing therapy to see this work again.  The best thing I saw in Madrid was the Goya ceilings in the Church of St. Anthony. Never had I seen a dome depicting godly events like Hell. St. Anthony was blessing creatures that were supposed to be human. Cherubs were floating around like pests. A big thumbs up to Spain for supporting out of control artists like Goya, Picasso, El Greco, Dali, and Gaudi. 

GAUDI (1852-1926)

Unlike Goya’s grim world, Gaudi’s was an exaltation of God and nature in everything he designed. He was only 31 when he was entrusted as chief architect of La Sagrada Familia. Imagine the gall he had to change a traditional design into his own indulgence. Imagine the gall he had to continue, knowing that in such a pace it will take more than his lifetime, and perhaps to be left, as it turned out, for a century and a half, an undone eye-sore in the heart of Barcelona. And so it was true that an absolute artist must also be an absolute egotist! And that’s how masterpieces were made! The cob towers that I saw in the 1980’s had turned deep earthy brown in contrast to newer constructions toward finishing the basilica. Looking at the new additions, I sensed that his original designs had been broadly compromised for cost and time.


ROME / ISLAM / MOORS
Rome certainly has its footprints everywhere in Spain. What marvelous engineering, beauty, and function was the Segovia aqueduct! No wonder the remnants of columns and stones need to be preserved in place; only so could we phantom the scale and craftsmanship of magnificence at some ancient sites. Interesting was that Columbus, Spain’s great pride, was an Italian. That, again, shows how Spain supported the funky, in this case, a funky explorer. History goes that after 1492 Spain became Catholic strong, and Muslims and Moors were erased out. Even so, beauty was universal and sanctified from destruction. Granada’s Alhambra and Seville’s Alcazar were kept unharmed and remained highlights for tourists. Lacey curvy carvings, colorful mosaics, and reflective ponds in Islamic architectural designs exhibit a lyrical, meditative, and peace seeking culture. Salaam Alaikum!

BULLFIGHT
“Bullfight is savage, it ought to be banned forever!” I was no more bloodthirsty than those who said those words but were not vegetarians. If I hadn’t seen a beautiful bull-killing 30 years ago, I probably wouldn’t care to see it again. On that occasion, the matador slid the sword so smoothly and precisely into the bull that the bull didn’t even react, and when the matador motioned his red cape for the bull to lay down, the bull obeyed and layed down to final death. This time however, based on two matadors getting jabbed and seriously injured by their bulls, I suspect that the skills of matadors have gone down, perhaps because this art form is no longer mainstream popular. There was a legacy of human against bull as indicated by cave drawings. Back then, I’m sure human didn’t always win. Fast forward, I don’t know how the butcher does it, but a quick bullet may be the most merciful way to kill for meat. Otherwise, a good matador aims to do the same but with some finesse.


FLAMENCO
Near the Seville Alcazar, 20 euros included a drink, a 3-course meal, and the show. Guests began to pack in no sooner than 8 p.m. A little round table for the four of us was right by the small floor stage. We got our drinks and finished our appetizers when the guitarist, the singer, and the dancer began. There was much to love about a live flamenco performance at a tiny bar restaurant! The solo acoustic guitar certainly did strum my heart, the singer’s lamenting voice cut into my soul, and the dancer’s gut wrenching passion mesmerized me like a matador’s bull in the cusp of life and death. All that with wine was a perfect evening. After the show, in sprinkling rain, we walked the cobblestones feeling happy along old shops back to our Airbnb near the Metropol Parasol.

menu v. real
restaurant in Toledo

PAELLA
Whatever I had years ago on the top floor of the Galleria Department Store in Barcelona must not had been authentic. I remember the pan of fragrant and flavored rice cluttered with bone-in skin-on chicken wings, chorizo sausage, octopus, clam, and shrimp. It was memorable! As paella was invented in Valencia, we consulted our Airbnb host; she recommended the Restaurante Neptuno. We ordered rabbit chicken paella and seafood paella. Although theirs was indeed the best among others we tried on this trip, my personal conclusion is that I shall not miss eating "authentic" paellas that were soggy, under-cooked with scanty toppings.

2 standard taxis

TAXI
In anticipation of landing in Madrid airport, I had first opted for but later cancelled an online pickup service when I found out the company counted even purses and backpacks as luggage. Online also advised about maximum 4 people and luggage limits on a standard airport taxi. To avoid unnecessary gibberish, our group of 4 each with a carry on and a personal bag took the airport express bus to Atocha Station. Until we found out how convenient and inexpensive (cheaper than Uber) Spain taxis were, we used Uber in Madrid, Porto, and Lisbon. In fact, standard taxis could take all 4 of us plus our luggage, handbags, and more in Granada, Valencia, and Barcelona without fuss.  Having said that, we did have a minor scuffle in Barcelona with a confused elderly driver over spare change. Perhaps it was a syndrome in big cities like Madrid and Barcelona.


PORTO & LISBON
When my friend and I picked up our Airbnb key, the guy at the Welcome Center said, “It’s just around the corner.” By that he meant we walk 2 blocks uphill on a 15 degree slant. As tourists, looking at Porto’s vertical cityscape from Dom Luis Bridge was a nice spectacle, or riding Lisbon’s Tram 28 up and up to Castelo de São Jorge was fun, but imagine having to live on those hilly streets everyday! Give them sugar. We enjoyed the eyeful of selections at every pastry shop. Get a cup of coffee, even a glass of wine to go with a nata tart or croissant and take a break in a chandelier lit corner. There’s a way to survive anywhere.

in Valencia Cathedral

HOLY GRAIL

"For God so loved the world that he gave his one and only Son, that whoever believes in him shall not perish but have eternal life."

“This is My Blood, the blood of the covenant that is poured out for many.”