CHENGDU CHONGQING YANGTZE BEIJING CHINA 2025

Two months before the US China trade war of 145% and 125% mutual tariffs, in February I had already bought round trip Cathay Pacific's Hong Kong Beijing flights: USD $951, and $63 $55 for aisle seats. Cattle class seats were brutal. Coming and going, both were guys in the trapped seat next to me. Inevitably their elbow on the armrest had to invade my space. Breathe and relax, because I had to.  I checked in my carry-on(!) luggage and placed my backpack in the upper bin to maximize sit space. Even by the aisle, my outer foot must stay within the seat's confine, in order not to get hit by a service cart or passerby. 15 hours. I watched the Bob Dylan movie "A Complete Unknown." Noteworthy was the  actress's rendition of Joan Baez's "House of The Rising Sun." I always loved Dylan's version. On the way home I watched "Becoming Led Zeppelin." Time spared no one; once sweet face and wild, now graceful but nevertheless aged, Jimmy, Robert, and John（sadly drummer John Bonham died young) recounted their striking moments with glimmer and satisfaction in their eyes and lips. My brother took me to see them in concert at the LA Forum in the 1970's. Those were the days. 

Back to the trade war. I probably wouldn't have made plans to China had I known that the battle could escalate so quickly. Anything could happen; who could predict, borders could shut down.  I remembered watching on TV how folks scrambled to take the last copter out of Saigon.  Travel for leisure shouldn't be so dramatic.  I did already pay for hotels and transportation, and so with prayers, I went.

April 17 - May 7, 2025

I took 复兴號 (Fuxing, "revival") high speed train from Hong Kong to Chengdu 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Cutting from south to north, there was nothing glamorous outside the window. I saw modest, although transformed, villages.  Brush barriers by rail tracks appeared approaching every town, probably to lessen train disturbance to the neighborhoods; industrial structures and farmlands were mostly world standard utilitarian; residential housing amid rural areas were mostly flat top box buildings, single or multi levels; and prominent skyscrapers appeared at bigger towns.  

CHENGDU has a load of history. I learned on this trip that it was the capitol of several periods since BC, including during the Three Kingdoms (AD 221-263). One day I aimed for 錦里古街 (Jinli Street, "Brocade and Silk").  It was an ancient commercial area 2000 years ago. The Qing Dynasty revived or duplicated the district.  It became a tourist attraction of snacks and gift shops. Serendipitously I wandered into neighboring 武候祠 (Wuhou Temple, "Royal Martial") and happened upon the burial places of 諸葛亮 (most famous military genius) and 劉備 (Shu Han emperor)!  Suddenly these historical figures were no longer theatrical or comic book characters. Thousands of years of history got real.

What is this? 
Made 4000 years ago! 

History went way further for me on this trip. I visited 三星堆 (Sanxingdui, "Three Stars Pile"). It was a major excavated habitat of 4000 years ago, around the time of Egyptian pyramids! Fantastic alien looking bronze heads and oddly connected creatures and plants sculptures aplenty and still more to dig. As proven by worldwide historical relics, human being's inventiveness and craftsmanship were already A+ back thousands of years ago. I come to think that we, today, are not any smarter than people back in the BC's, the crucial aspect of social evolution was the advancement of tools. The same powerful human brain that made the prehistoric flint stone made the smartphone of our time. There are plenty of indigenous medical methods that still work! 

“CHONGQING is cyberpunk!” I was instantly attracted and freaked upon seeing some vlogs on YouTube.  Gauging the Yangtze River as the base level, videos showed a curious mountainous cityscape of modern and ancient, western and Chinese buildings, with highways wrapped round and round multiple levels. Mid-air cable cars were part of the city's transportation across the Yangtze. Buses and cars on pristine roads (no potholes) at all levels, and then there was the famous metro train that ran through a residential building! Good enough for me to get off the couch and go take a look. 

 

On the way to 紅岩革命紀念館 (Hongyan Revolutionary Memorial Hall), I took Metro Line 2, which pleasantly surprised me as it indeed ran right into a building. I got off at 李子垻站 (Liziba Station) inside the building, and then had to go 6 floors down to river level, in order to transferred to Bus 318.  

I knew Chongqing would be physical. To my surprise, I didn't overly suffer, as I basically avoided up-step paths. Although not always conveniently located, there were escalators or elevators somewhere. I heard there is a 25-story apartment building with no elevator! The trick was to zigzag on elevators through interconnected neighboring buildings. I saw plenty of elderly people everywhere, some even toting loads. They must know something we tourists don't know. 

Earlier in my life, I knew of Chongqing as “Chung King.” There was a Chung King Road in Los Angeles Chinatown. Later I heard about Chongqing’s successful defense against Japan in WW2.  History recorded that Japan conquered over half of China by land battles, but it could not infiltrate Chongqing due to its inland location and natural mountain barriers. Japan resorted to aerial massacre, bombing Chongqing indiscriminately to bring China to its knees, for 6 full years. History recorded an immense devastation, but Chongqing never gave in. WW2 ended in 1945.  

  

My hotel was at 解放碑 (Jiefangbei, "Liberation Monument") Pedestrian Street.  Prior to 1980, the  monument was the highest Chongqing structure.  It is now surrounded by flashing neon name brands.  With reverence to the monument, I prayed for World Peace. Amen.  

My friend Candy took the high-speed train from Hong Kong to Chongqing, to joined me on the 3-night /4-day YANGTZE RIVER CRUISE on the Century Paragon.  Candy, lady of few words, was an ideal travel buddy.  Her trip's focus was photography, so I was glad to finally get photos of me that were not selfies.  

Downstream west to east, for 3 nights the ship meandered through vertical gorges, I anticipated a meditative lyrical river experience.  As much as the Yangtze had nourished centuries of living, human effort to curb flood, store water, generate electricity, and improve shipping had necessitated the building of dams.  Much was sacrificed.  Long established families by the river were relocated.  Their homes submerged.   The Century Paragon was pretty enough by international standards.  Fellow passengers were 95% native Chinese.  During the May 1st Labor Day holiday, there were plenty of preteen children and their parents or grandparents.  The ship catered to this majority.  All meals were Northern Chinese food.  Thank God they had fresh grind coffee and free French and California wine.  As serene as this slow cruise could have been, I quickly knew that it wasn't going to happen.  The second day was the best.  I declined the opportunity for an excursion.  With more than half of the ship gone, the deck became spacious, and the river was finally peaceful for those few hours.  Praise!   

The Yangtze Cruise ended at Yichang City.  I took the 10 p.m. Train T50, upper soft sleeper, 17 hours to Beijing.  On this old China train, to get onto the upper bunk, I first threw my luggage and backpack up there, took off my hiking boots, grabbed the guard rail and another anchor, stepped on a latch (no ladder), and pulled my body up over onto the bed.  Up there was ample storage space; I was comfortable and slept for hours.  I awoke to a fully occupied cabin of 2 upper and lower bunks.  It was daylight but hours before Beijing.  In the dining car I paid RMB ￥30 that included a cup of tea and a bowl of noodle soup.  There was no one besides cafe attendants.  I enjoyed quiet time looking out the window.  

I was able to get on public transportation everywhere by clicking Alipay "transport" and presetting the city onto my phone, so that once I arrived, the QR codes were available to scan for metro or bus.  Alipay payments instantly debited from my US credit card by market rate.  No currency conversion disadvantage for foreigners.  For the one guy busy grilling lamb skewers, I scanned the shop's posted QR, my phone showed RMB￥25, I entered my passcode, done.  The guy heard￥25 received.  No cashier involved.  

BEIJING:  My hotel at 前門 (Qianmen, "Front Door") was walkable to 天安門 (Tiananmen Square) and 故宮 (Ancient Palace).  Many landmarks require an hour on metros or buses, and plenty of walking even at the location.  I figured walking at least 3 miles per day.  There were many landmarks worth visiting; most places honored free senior admission with passport ID.  

The 1983 movie 火燒圓明園 (The Burning of Imperial Palace) had left an indelible impression on me.  Growing up in the US, the British and the French were often portrayed as elegant and well-mannered peoples.  I was shocked that the movie depicted their abominable violence and greed in 1860 during the 2nd Opium War.  On this Beijing trip, I made a posthumous memorial visit to the site.  圓明園 (Yuanmingyuan Park) is now a public attraction, the park has been fixed up and beautiful,  but the Foreign Mansion was left in ruin for the world to see.  

When the plane returned me to LAX, there were separate lines for Visitors, Green Card Holders, and Citizens at the Customs and Border Control. I eyeballed about 800 people lined up at "Visitors," the winding line was barely moving. I guessed foreigners now need to be screened thoroughly.  I whizzed through "Citizens" with zero waiting time. Another fabulous trip.