SPAIN & PORTUGAL 2019

Revisiting after 30 years

I felt no deja-vu. 

Spain and Portugal progressed 
and remodeled with the times, 
and I evolved too.

GOYA (1746-1828)
On this visit to the Prado, I couldn’t find “Saturn Devouring His Son.” This Goya was transported from a wall in his residence. I’m guessing that in his last days, family cannibalism summed up his view on humanity. I didn’t know real pain 30+ years ago, but on this round it could had been healing therapy to see this work again.  The best thing I saw in Madrid was the Goya ceilings in the Church of St. Anthony. Never had I seen a dome depicting godly events like Hell. St. Anthony was blessing creatures that were supposed to be human. Cherubs were floating around like pests. A big thumbs up to Spain for supporting out of control artists like Goya, Picasso, El Greco, Dali, and Gaudi. 

GAUDI (1852-1926)

Unlike Goya’s grim world, Gaudi’s was an exaltation of God and nature in everything he designed. He was only 31 when he was entrusted as chief architect of La Sagrada Familia. Imagine the gall he had to change a traditional design into his own indulgence. Imagine the gall he had to continue, knowing that in such a pace it will take more than his lifetime, and perhaps to be left, as it turned out, for a century and a half, an undone eye-sore in the heart of Barcelona. And so it was true that an absolute artist must also be an absolute egotist! And that’s how masterpieces were made! The cob towers that I saw in the 1980’s had turned deep earthy brown in contrast to newer constructions toward finishing the basilica. Looking at the new additions, I sensed that his original designs had been broadly compromised for cost and time.


ROME / ISLAM / MOORS
Rome certainly has its footprints everywhere in Spain. What marvelous engineering, beauty, and function was the Segovia aqueduct! No wonder the remnants of columns and stones need to be preserved in place; only so could we phantom the scale and craftsmanship of magnificence at some ancient sites. Interesting was that Columbus, Spain’s great pride, was an Italian. That, again, shows how Spain supported the funky, in this case, a funky explorer. History goes that after 1492 Spain became Catholic strong, and Muslims and Moors were erased out. Even so, beauty was universal and sanctified from destruction. Granada’s Alhambra and Seville’s Alcazar were kept unharmed and remained highlights for tourists. Lacey curvy carvings, colorful mosaics, and reflective ponds in Islamic architectural designs exhibit a lyrical, meditative, and peace seeking culture. Salaam Alaikum!

BULLFIGHT
“Bullfight is savage, it ought to be banned forever!” I was no more bloodthirsty than those who said those words but were not vegetarians. If I hadn’t seen a beautiful bull-killing 30 years ago, I probably wouldn’t care to see it again. On that occasion, the matador slid the sword so smoothly and precisely into the bull that the bull didn’t even react, and when the matador motioned his red cape for the bull to lay down, the bull obeyed and layed down to final death. This time however, based on two matadors getting jabbed and seriously injured by their bulls, I suspect that the skills of matadors have gone down, perhaps because this art form is no longer mainstream popular. There was a legacy of human against bull as indicated by cave drawings. Back then, I’m sure human didn’t always win. Fast forward, I don’t know how the butcher does it, but a quick bullet may be the most merciful way to kill for meat. Otherwise, a good matador aims to do the same but with some finesse.


FLAMENCO
Near the Seville Alcazar, 20 euros included a drink, a 3-course meal, and the show. Guests began to pack in no sooner than 8 p.m. A little round table for the four of us was right by the small floor stage. We got our drinks and finished our appetizers when the guitarist, the singer, and the dancer began. There was much to love about a live flamenco performance at a tiny bar restaurant! The solo acoustic guitar certainly did strum my heart, the singer’s lamenting voice cut into my soul, and the dancer’s gut wrenching passion mesmerized me like a matador’s bull in the cusp of life and death. All that with wine was a perfect evening. After the show, in sprinkling rain, we walked the cobblestones feeling happy along old shops back to our Airbnb near the Metropol Parasol.

menu v. real
restaurant in Toledo

PAELLA
Whatever I had years ago on the top floor of the Galleria Department Store in Barcelona must not had been authentic. I remember the pan of fragrant and flavored rice cluttered with bone-in skin-on chicken wings, chorizo sausage, octopus, clam, and shrimp. It was memorable! As paella was invented in Valencia, we consulted our Airbnb host; she recommended the Restaurante Neptuno. We ordered rabbit chicken paella and seafood paella. Although theirs was indeed the best among others we tried on this trip, my personal conclusion is that I shall not miss eating "authentic" paellas that were soggy, under-cooked with scanty toppings.

2 standard taxis

TAXI
In anticipation of landing in Madrid airport, I had first opted for but later cancelled an online pickup service when I found out the company counted even purses and backpacks as luggage. Online also advised about maximum 4 people and luggage limits on a standard airport taxi. To avoid unnecessary gibberish, our group of 4 each with a carry on and a personal bag took the airport express bus to Atocha Station. Until we found out how convenient and inexpensive (cheaper than Uber) Spain taxis were, we used Uber in Madrid, Porto, and Lisbon. In fact, standard taxis could take all 4 of us plus our luggage, handbags, and more in Granada, Valencia, and Barcelona without fuss.  Having said that, we did have a minor scuffle in Barcelona with a confused elderly driver over spare change. Perhaps it was a syndrome in big cities like Madrid and Barcelona.


PORTO & LISBON
When my friend and I picked up our Airbnb key, the guy at the Welcome Center said, “It’s just around the corner.” By that he meant we walk 2 blocks uphill on a 15 degree slant. As tourists, looking at Porto’s vertical cityscape from Dom Luis Bridge was a nice spectacle, or riding Lisbon’s Tram 28 up and up to Castelo de São Jorge was fun, but imagine having to live on those hilly streets everyday! Give them sugar. We enjoyed the eyeful of selections at every pastry shop. Get a cup of coffee, even a glass of wine to go with a nata tart or croissant and take a break in a chandelier lit corner. There’s a way to survive anywhere.

in Valencia Cathedral

HOLY GRAIL

"For God so loved the world that he gave his one and only Son, that whoever believes in him shall not perish but have eternal life."

“This is My Blood, the blood of the covenant that is poured out for many.”